Woven Influence: A Photo Essay

6.3 / Dimensions: Expanded Measures of Textiles

Woven Influence: A Photo Essay

By John Brodie February 26, 2015

Inspired by the 1969 Stedelijk Museum exhibition catalogue, A Document Made by Paul Thek and Edwin Klein, these photos explore—via books, publications, pamphlets, and artist monographs—the influence of craft and textile arts such as sewing and weaving on contemporary art. A bibliographic trajectory—beginning in the early twentieth century and continuing through textile arts’ heyday in the 1960s and ’70s—shows the influence of textiles and craft on contemporary art practice. A bibliography of the books contained therein appears below each photo.

All images © John Brodie

Notes, Patterns, Instructions, Secrets

  • Thek, Paul, and Edwin Klein. A Document Made by Paul Thek and Edwin Klein. Amsterdam: Stedelijk Museum, 1969.
  • Disegni per Punto Croce, no. 11. Milan: Edizione Mani di Fata, circa 1950.
  • Editors of Woman’s DayBook of Patterns and Instructions for American Needlework. New York: Fawcett, 1963.
  • Wilder, Edna. Secrets of Eskimo Skin Sewing. Anchorage: Alaska Northwest, 1976.
  • Coffinet, Julien, and Maurice Pianzola. Tapestry: Craft and Art. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1974.
  • What Do You Want to Know about Fibers? Yarn? Fabrics? New York: Celanese Fibers, circa 1965.
  • Aiken, Joyce, and Jean Ray Laury. Creating Body Coverings. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1973.
  • Oldenburg, Claes. Store Days: Documents from the Store (1961) and Ray Gun Theater (1962). New York: Something Else, 1967.
  • Nylen, Anna-Maja. Swedish Handicraft. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1977.
  • Seagroatt, Margaret. Coptic Weaves: Notes on the Collection of Coptic Textiles in the City of Liverpool Museum. Liverpool: City of Liverpool Museum, 1965.

Warp and Weft: Mainstream

  • Constantine, Mildred, and Jack Lenor Larsen. The Art Fabric: Mainstream. Tokyo/New York/San Francisco: Kodansha International, 1985.
  • Kaufman, Ruth. The New American Tapestry. New York: Reinhold, 1968.
  • Willcox, Donald J. New Design in Weaving. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1970.
  • Portier, André, and François Poncetton. Décoration Océanienne. Paris: Librarie des Arts Décoratifs, circa 1925. Plate XXXIII.
  • Carroll, Sidney, et al., eds. Textiles USA. American Fabrics, no. 38. New York: Reporter, 1956.
  • Bühler, Alfred, et al. Ikats. Ciba Review, no. 44. Basel: Ciba, 1942.
  • Watson, William. Textile Design and Colour. 6th ed. London: Longmans, Green and Co., 1960.
  • Disegni per Punto Croce, no. 5. Milan: Edizione Mani di Fata, circa 1950.
  • Miller, Dorothy. Indigo: From Seed to Dye. Aptos: Indigo, 1981.
  • Allen, Elsie. Pomo Basketmaking: A Supreme Art for the Weaver. Healdsburg: Naturegraph, 1972.
  • Groff, Russell E., ed. Warp and Weft, vol. 10, no. 2. Santa Barbara: Robin and Russ, 1957.

Threads of History: A Whole Earth

  • Sieber, Roy. African Textiles and Decorative Arts. New York: Museum of Modern Art, 1972.
  • Standen, Edith A., et al. Threads of History: The Romance of Fibers, Natural and Man-Made, and the Art of Their Use in Decorative Textiles. New York: American Federation of the Arts, 1965.
  • Weir, Shelagh. Palestinian Embroidery. London: British Museum, 1970.
  • Lütticken, Sven, and Bianca Stigter. Fransje Killaars. Rotterdam: 010 Publishers, 2012.
  • Domján, Evelyn. Párta: The Crown Jewels of the Village, Hungarian Folk Art Coronets. Passaic: Hungarian Folk Museum, 1983.
  • Walker, Sandra Rambo. Country Cloth to Coverlets: Textile Traditions in 19th Century Pennsylvania. Lewisburg: Oral Traditions Project of the Union County Historical Society, 1981.
  • Tilton, John Kent. Two Hundred Years of Textile Designs. New York: Scalamandré Museum of Textiles, 1960.
  • Brand, Steward, ed. Whole Earth Catalog: Access to Tools. Menlo Park: Portola Institute, 1969.
  • Reinhold Books on Art, Graphic Design, and Crafts for Schools, Libraries and Colleges. New York: Reinhold, 1966.
  • Johnson, Barbara, and Bill McCann. Sakakke: Textile Art from West Africa. New York: African-American Institute, 1975.
  • Falls, Sam. Life Size. New York: Karma, 2012.
  • Danto, Arthur C., and Joan Simon. Sheila Hicks: Weaving as Metaphor. New Haven: Yale University, 2006.
  • Modern Fibers and Fabrics. 6th ed. New York: J.C. Penney, 1962. 

Post-Columbian Softwork

  • Myers-Szupinska, Julian. Sterling Ruby: Soft Work. Köln: Verlag de Buchhandlung Walther König, 2014.
  • Waever, Clara. Sammentraeksmonstre: Monstre og Anvisninger til Sammentroeksbroderi. Copenhagen: Clara Waever, circa 1930.
  • Precolumbian Motifs. DMC Library. Mulhouse: Editions Therese de Dillmont, 1946.
  • Wilson, Jean. The Pile Weaves: Twenty-six Techniques and How to Do Them. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1974.
  • Lawergren, S. Bottensömmar. Malmö: AB E. Holmqvists Eftr., 1955.
  • Husch, Anette, and Matthias Harder. Thorsten Brinkmann. Ostfildern: Hatje Cantz, 2008.
  • Kent, Kate Peck. The Story of Navaho Weaving. Phoenix: Heard Museum of Anthropology and Primitive Arts, 1961.
  • Springall, Diana. Canvas Embroidery. London: B.T. Batsford, 1969.
  • Ellegood, Anne, and Douglas Fogle. All of This and Nothing. Los Angeles: Hammer Museum; New York: DelMonico, 2011.
  • The Workbasket, vol. 26, no. 4. Kansas City: The Workbasket, 1961.

How-To: Forget Everything

  • Bolton, Andrew, and Elvira Dyanganiose, et al. Nick Cave: Epitome. Munich: Prestel Verlag, 2014.
  • Fischer, Pauline, and Anabel Lasker. Bargello Magic: How to Design Your Own. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1972.
  • Arriola, Magalí, and Peter Eleey. James Lee Byars: 1/2 an Autobiography, Sourcebook. Ecatepec: Fundación Jumex Arte Contemporàneo; New York: MoMA PS1; London: Koenig, 2014.
  • Meilach, Dona Z., and Lee Erlin Snow. Weaving Off Loom. Chicago: Henry Regnery, 1973.
  • The Story of Wool. Denver: American Wool Council and Wool Bureau, 1968.
  • Broudy, Eric. The Book of Looms: A History of the Handloom from Ancient Times to the Present. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1979.
  • Wilcox, Donald. Modern Leather Design. New York: Watson-Guptill, 1971.
  • Bell, Kristy, and Colin Lang. Jessica Jackson Hutchins: Everything Erblaut. West Yorkshire: Hepworth Wakefield; Biel: Centre PasquArt Biel, 2013.
  • Short, Eirian. Introducing Macramé. London: B.T. Batsford; New York: Watson-Guptill, 1970.
  • Slivka, Rose, ed. The Crafts of the Modern World. New York: Bramhall House, 1968. 

Techniques of Knotting Abstraction

  • Nickas, Bob. Painting Abstraction: New Elements in Abstract Painting. London: Phaidon, 2007.
  • Hájek, Lubor. Chinese Art. London: Spring, 1966.
  • Disegni per Punto Croce, no. 12. Milan: Edizione Mani di Fata, circa 1950.
  • Willcox, Donald J. Techniques of Rya Knotting. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1971.
  • Calavas, A., ed. La Décoration Primitive. Paris: Librarie des Arts Décoratifs, circa 1925.
  • Lee, Paul. Stills. New York: An Art Service, 2010.
  • Yakush, Mary. ROCI: Rauschenberg Overseas Culture Exchange. Munich: Prestel Verlag, 1991.
  • Constantine, Mildred, and Jack Lenor Larsen. The Art Fabric: Mainstream. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1985.
  • Weigle, Palmy, and Frederick McGourty, eds. Natural Plant Dyeing: A Handbook. Brooklyn: Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1973. 

Byways to Hicks, Polke, Tapies, and Tuttle

  • Editors of Woman’s Day. Book of Patterns and Instructions for American Needlework. New York: Fawcett, 1963.
  • Snow, Marjorie, and William Snow. Step-by-Step Tablet Weaving: An Introduction to the Art of Creative Tablet Weaving. New York: Golden, 1973.
  • Dexeus, Victòria Combalia. Tàpies. Barcelona: Ediciones Polígrafa, S.A., 1986.
  • Lantz, Sherlee. Trianglepoint: From Persian Pavilions to Op Art with One Stitch. New York: Viking, 1976.
  • Faxon, Susan C., and Joan Simon. Sheila Hicks: Fifty Years. New Haven: Yale University Press; Andover: Addison Gallery of American Art, 2010.
  • Lane, John R., and Charles Wylie, eds. Sigmar Polke: History of Everything, Paintings and Drawings 1998–2003. New Haven: Yale University, 2003.
  • Books for the Weaver: A Comprehensive Catalog on Hand Weaving, Spinning, Dyeing, Textile Design. Monterey: Craft and Hobby Book Service, circa 1960.
  • Grynsztein, Madeleine. The Art of Richard Tuttle.  San Francisco: San Francisco Museum of Modern Art; New York: D.A.P., 2005.
  • Atwater, Mary Meigs. Byways in Hand-weaving. New York: Macmillan, 1954.

Makers Unmonumental

  • Siegler, Susan. Needlework Patterns from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Boston: New York Graphic Society, 1976.
  • Decan, Liesbeth, and Hilde Van Gelder. Philippe Van Snick: Dynamic Project. Brussels: ASA, 2010.
  • Flood, Richard, Laura Hoptman, and Massimiliano Gioni. Unmonumental: The Object in the Twenty-first Century. London: Phaidon, 2007.
  • Friedman, Martin. Oldenburg: Six Themes. Minneapolis: Walker Art Center, 1975.
  • Cooke, Lynne, Barry Schwabsky, and Lynne Tillman. Jessica Stockholder. London: Phaidon, 1999.
  • Curiger, Brice. Sigmar Polke: Works and Days. Cologne: Dumont Literatur Kunst, 2005.
  • Collingwood, Peter. The Maker’s Hand: A Closer Look at Textile Structures. Asheville: Lark; Loveland: Interweave, 1987.
  • Benezra, Neal, Brice Curiger, and Robert Fleck. Franz West. London: Phaidon, 1999. 


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